Lago di Mergozzo

Mergozzo, Italy

A beautiful lake just over from the vast Maggiore. And another outing for those pesky bikes (we’d rented them for five days – gotta get your money’s worth, right?!).


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If you’re there, also check out the Cooperativa Agricola Allafonte by Verbania railway station. Its modest entrance belies a huge Aladdin’s cave of local organic produce.


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Camping Lido Toce di Cordula Zimmerman

Lago Maggiore, Italy
Altogether a much quieter place than the Isolino and barely a 5 minute paddle board ride away. We begged Cordula (almost on our knees) for permission to sit in the guests only cafe for just one beer in peace. She was very obliging.
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Next time we’re in town we’ll stay there. It’s basic, but a beautiful spot. And silent, save only for intermittent muffled screams from her noisy neighbour when the wind changes.

Verbania by bike

Verbania, Italy
Sounds romantic, no? Well, thankfully the Isolino rents e-bikes and mountain bikes for that very experience.

It also rents ‘city bikes’ – the budget-friendly option which we chose, of course. Try riding one of those buggers to Verbania and you’ll know about it (well, your ‘sit bones’ will) – for several days. Airless tyres.
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Camping Village Isolino

Lago Maggiore, Italy

The Isolino is great if you like your camping overrun by screaming kids. They’re on holiday, bless ’em, and very excitable – who could begrudge that?! All very sweet really, and the amenities and shop are good.

The eastern-most pitches and beach are the cutest and furthest from the mayhem, and with easy SUP access to the lake from that beach, you’ll be happily catching up on your chronic lack of sleep in no time, floating into infinity.

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Prawn Madras

It can get pretty damp and cold out there when the sun sinks. A prawn madras can help. Simple, quick, spicy, and hot – a glow that lasts well into the evening.
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Prawn Madras (serves 2)
1 small chopped onion
1 tbsp finely diced ginger
1 tbsp Geeta’s Madras Curry Paste
1 medium tin chopped tomatoes
2 tbsp plain yogurt
Enough raw prawns for 2
Fresh coriander (optional)
 
Method
Fry the onion and ginger in a splash of coconut oil for 1 minute. Add the curry paste and fry for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, and simmer on a low heat for 5 minutes. Add the prawns and yogurt, and simmer until the prawns are just cooked (about 2 minutes). For an extra special version, stir a handfull of chopped fresh coriander through the sauce before serving, saving a few leaves for garnishing.

Camping Rursee

Simmerath, Germany

If you’re likely to find us anywhere, it’s probably Camping Rursee. It’s a stone’s throw from the registered address of the Bulli but far enough to be AWOL.

The Rursee is a majestic twisting dragon, tendrills and teeth, smoke and horns, and still largely unexplored by these voyagers. We’re working on it.

The small campsite, family-run and supremely friendly, clings to the hill above one of the lake’s many watery sinews, its precipitous location rendering it off limits to the monstrous RVs used by many in Germany in the name of ‘camping’. A minute’s walk from your pitch and you’re gliding off into the central section of this huge waterbody.

The Eppstein Project

Bremthal, Germany

On our way back from the Gitzy, we spent the night at this little place, that was under redevelopment. It’s a beautiful spot, with great views from the bar and super-friendly staff.

A person sitting in a chair

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